Tips for Formulating Sugar Scrubs

Tips for Formulating: Emulsified Sugar Scrubs

Emulsified sugar scrubs are gentle exfoliating products that slough off dead skin to reveal soft and supple skin. Oils, butters, stearic acid and emulsifying wax are first melted on low heat until all ingredients are liquid. Next the liquid is stirred and cooled to 122ºF. Fragrance, a preservative, antioxidants and color are added to the liquids and mixed until they are around 80ºF. Finally sugar is mixed into the liquid. The end result is a homogeneous sugar scrub that stays firm. Many customers prefer emulsified sugar scrubs to traditional sugar scrubs because the oil will not separate and pool on the top of the scrub. Read our formula breakdown guide to help you formulate your own luxurious sugar scrubs!

Sugar: 66%
White granulated sugar provides the scrubbiness for emulsified sugar scrubs. The small grain size is gentle enough to use on the face if you decide to make a face scrub, but is also nice for hands and feet.

Oil: 17–20%
Any cosmetic oil can be used in sugar scrubs, but we prefer oils with an excellent glide. Avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, evening primrose oil, pomace olive oil, rice bran oil and sweet almond oil are some of our favorites.

Butter: 7%
Butters add an extra touch of luxury to emulsified sugar scrubs. Mango butter, Sal butter and Shea butter are popular choices, but you could also use a slightly harder butter such as Tucuma butter or any cosmetic butter blend.

Emulsifying Wax: 3%
Emulsifying wax binds the ingredients together to give emulsified scrubs that homogenous consistency. This ingredient is the main difference between traditional sugar scrubs and emulsified sugar scrubs.

Stearic Acid: 3%
Stearic acid hardens and gives body to emulsified sugar scrubs. It also aids in stabilizing the emulsion.

Germall Plus or Glydant
Liquid: 0.50% & 0.30%
Sugar scrubs are sometimes used in the shower and sometimes users dip wet hands into the jar. Both of these circumstances will introduce water to the sugar scrub, which eventually will lead to bacterial growth. Germall Plus Liquid is our preservative to keep our scrub pristine.

Fragrance: 0–2%
Fragrance adds that wonderful smell to your product. Essential oils, fragrance oils and natural fragrance oils are all commonly used in scrubs. Make sure to use them at their safe usage rate.

Antioxidant: 0.05–0.50%
Antioxidants such as Vitamin E and Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) extend the shelf life of the oils and butters in the recipe. Without the antioxidant the oils will turn rancid much quicker.

Mica Color: < 1%
Color attracts customers to your product, easily differentiates scents if you have more than one scented scrub and creates a beautiful finished product. We love using oil-locking mica colors in our scrubs for even color.

Now that you have our formula breakdown, here are a couple recipes we have created using the guidelines.

Lemon Sugar Scrub
66% White Sugar
15.45% Sweet Almond Oil
7% Ivory Shea Butter
3% Grape Seed Oil
3% Stearic Acid
3% Emulsifying Wax
2% Lemon Essential Oil
0.50% Germall Plus Liquid or 0.30% Glydant

0.05% Rosemary Essential Oil

< 0.01% Yellow Mica Powder

Strawberry & Guava Sugar Scrub
66% White Sugar
18% Apricot Kernel Oil
7% Ivory Shea Butter
3% Stearic Acid
3% Emulsifying Wax
2% Strawberry Guava Fragrance Oil
0.50% Germall Plus Liquid or 0.30% Glydant
0.50% Vitamin E
< 0.01% Magenta Mica Powder

Pumpkin Pie Sugar Scrub
66% White Sugar
18.45% Coconut Oil
7% Refined Shea Butter
3% Stearic Acid
3% Traditional Emulsifying Wax
2% Pumpkin Rum Cake Fragrance Oil
0.50% Germall Plus Liquid or 0.30% Glydant
0.05% Rosemary Essential Oil
< 0.01% Saffron Mica

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